Mindanao Advice

Granada City is the capital of Granada province in Spain, located at the foot of the Sierra Nevada, 738 meters above sea level. The city is famous for the Alhambra, a great Moorish fortress built in 1238. The Islamic influence still gives exciting vibes to the fascinating old town, which sometimes feels more like Morocco than Spain. But that was not why my husband and I visited the place. We went there because we needed to deliver a document in person at the main branch of the Foreigners’ Office, and my husband needed a haircut.

That was our initial plan, but the city was so impressive that we stayed low-budget, improvised, and walked around for three days. We booked the cheapest place on Airbnb—10 euros a night for a double room with a shared bathroom in a large old flat.

At first, I wasn’t too fond of the improvised idea of testing out the cheapest lodging we could find, but it was clean and ideally located in the city center, within walking distance of everything. The only thing that made me nervous was the old electrical installation with switches that did not work correctly.

Usually, the bus from La Herradura (where we live) to Granada takes one and a half hours. But the earliest morning buses do not go via the motorway. Instead, they snake upward on a narrow, curvy road to the mountains, which takes almost three hours. It was fascinating to see the sunrise in the mountains, where a shepherd and his goats blocked the way for a while.

With daylight arriving, we could see small villages clinging to the mountainsides, and now and then, a deer or two would elegantly climb the steep terrain. It was one of the best bus rides of my life with those breathtaking views, but if you fear heights, take the motorway.

We arrived and took a taxi to the government office with a document needed for my residency application. Our experience at the Oficina de Extranjería was outstanding. It didn’t take long for us to finish what we came for, and the staff was amiable. One of them could speak a little English, and he was brought in to translate for us so that we clearly understood what to do next. So far, I only have good things to say about the Spanish bureaucracy.

We accidentally stumbled upon Bodegas Espadafor, a traditional Granadine bar that opened in 1910. It is located just around the corner from our flat, and my husband joked that we did not need to explore more of the city hehe. It has a rustic feel and is frequented mainly by the locals, but tourists like us are starting to discover it, so this charming local tapas bar can be packed during the peak hours of lunch and dinner.

We walked a lot and became increasingly thrilled by the wonderful old-town architecture. We were surrounded by parks and outdoor cafes, passing through alleys and narrow streets buzzing with life.

We gave up on entering the Alhambra due to the crowds and just explored its outer part.

Then, my husband found a hairdresser, completing our official itinerary. We continued exploring the more gastronomic sides of life in this Moorish city at the foot of the Sierra Nevada. I want to return soon.