The authorities in Envigado, the hometown of Pablo Escobar, are working hard to erase his memory. But it is a complex and challenging task due to a particular plant’s long history and relaxing reputation.
However, this was not why my husband and I decided to visit the little brother of Medellín in the Aburrá Valley, Colombia. We needed a break from the northern Tenerife winter climate and, at the same time, wanted to learn more Spanish.
I am outside Santa Gertrudis Church in the center of Envigado, a town 1,675 meters above sea level, centrally located in the metropolitan Medellín area. It is just north of the equator, but the elevation makes the climate springlike and pleasant all year round. Envigado has about 235,000 inhabitants, and the standard of living is among the highest in Colombia. It is now a safe place to visit. After years of bloody gang wars, criminals, paramilitary units, and guerrillas seem to have found a way of cooperating, and they are all keeping a low profile. This has made it possible for the area to prosper, and more and more tourists are coming in.
My only bad experience was when two of my fellow students’ bags containing computers, money, passports, and personal items were stolen. Otherwise, we had a peaceful time, and I never felt unsafe walking around. However, we were never out later than midnight, and it is advisable to take a taxi late at night. The main problem is air pollution, which can get really bad sometimes.
Envigado is a paradise when it comes to fruits and vegetables. They are cheap and delicious—a blessing and a stark contrast to the air quality. Carts like this are all over town, in addition to various shops and supermarkets.
A motorbike parked in the living room just outside our bedroom door.
In Colombia, using the living room as a night garage for motorbikes is common. We woke up the first morning to a very unpleasant smell of exhaust and told the hosts that we could not accept the arrangement. The motorbike was parked on the pavement for the rest of our stay, and the problem was solved. Colombians are primarily kind, cooperative, and easy to deal with.
Our host, Tatiana, and her husband, Leon, were a real pleasure to get to know. We felt very welcome, and there were no problems. We rented a bedroom with a private bathroom and shared the kitchen and living room through Airbnb for about 12 USD a night.
I’m leaving the house for a walk. Our bedroom is just behind me. With the window open, the smell of passersby smokers often finds its way inside. My husband quickly figured out that tobacco smokers were in the minority; it was another smell that dominated. We just closed the window when it became too much.
The streets of Envigado are full of trees, making our daily walks in the smog more pleasant.
Enrolling at Colombia Immersion Spanish School, a 15-minute walk from our house.
I had a photo op (L-R) with one of my cool teachers, Lorena, whose patience in teaching I admire. Also with me were CI’s kindest Student Experience Team members, Cristina, Gloria, and Johanna.
A Londoner (George) and a Dabawenya (yes, me) in the advanced class with coach Sandra during our TED Talk Spanish presentation.
Leaving the school while a student and a teacher have conversational classes outside.
I was hanging out with friends at a Mexican restaurant, Tequila y Sabor. From L to R: me, Seattleite Saircha, Colombian teachers Lore and Mafe, and Mafe’s friend, Laura.
Envigado is full of small eateries serving delicious and reasonably priced food.
We tried many of the high-end restaurants in Envigado, but only a few were good. However, the cheaper ones, like La Sazón de Doña Angela, where this picture was taken, never disappointed us.
A meal with soup, a main dish, and freshly made tropical fruit juice costs around 3 USD. We never had stomach problems eating at the local eateries, but the more exclusive restaurants were a shaky experience now and then.
On my way to the small grocery store/bar across the street. There’s one like this on almost every corner.
1 USD for a cold beer. Many Colombians in Envigado originate from Galicia and northern Spain and have developed a lively kindness that makes them very pleasant to associate with. For me, the people are the biggest resource of Envigado.
This is Otraparte Villa, the house of Fernando González, a writer and philosopher Envigado is very proud of. He lived from 1895 to 1964 and still has a great influence in Colombia. His house is now a museum and the headquarters of a foundation promoting his work. It is a hidden oasis and a fantastic place to relax, even though it is just a few steps from a busy road.
The café/restaurant in Otraparte is one of the best in Envigado and is very popular.
Rain is average, but it doesn’t last long. For me, it was refreshing, with some showers cleansing the air a little. The driest period is from January to April. Here, my husband is enjoying a Colombian “cappuccino con ron” outside the Mayor’s office.
Envigado has many old, cozy bars like this, and in the evenings, tango and salsa music are on the agenda.
In the evenings, the sidewalks outside the bars and private houses are popular gathering spots. Chairs and tables are brought out, and the party starts.
Locals mostly drink beer, shots of a local anise liquor called Aguardiente, and Medellín Ron.
…and tropical fruits are never far away.
I know there are many places of interest in Medellín that I did not visit, but it is a consolation that I still have many attractions to look forward to on my return. I hope that the air pollution will ease in the more metropolitan areas. Overall, I now look at the country differently, with great respect for the people of Envigado, who are working hard for their future and leaving their country’s problematic past behind.